Day 18: Traffic terror and the feline fairytale of Kotor

Camping Maslina – Kotor 46.94km ๐Ÿšดโ€โ™€๏ธ 3.08.18 โฑ 15.0km/hr โฌ†๏ธ 730m โฌ‡๏ธ 750m

After a restless sleep in our sauna tent we were woken early by a hedgehog ๐Ÿฆ” and not much later by a cat ๐Ÿˆ that paying us a visit. We had planned on waking up early anyway to get a head start. The lady at the bakery around the corner mentioned she opened at seven, but when we arrived she wasnโ€™t happy at all with us actually showing up at seven. We werenโ€™t happy either. The croissant ๐Ÿฅ that looked so tasty the day before had sugary chocolate inside and wasnโ€™t very tasty. High breakfast expectations ended in a big disappointment.

On the way to Budva
Quick picture of the road when there were no cars around

When we hit the road traffic was already getting busy and it pretty much stayed like that for the entire morning. It was absolutely the worst weโ€™ve had until now. We would love to go back to the Albanian highways ๐Ÿ›ฃ instead of cycling on the M-1 in Montenegro. When we thought it couldnโ€™t get any worse we hit Budva. Maybe itโ€™s a nice city, but we hate it. Traffic was horrible, once we were about to cycle out of the city the road got even narrower than before and cars ๐Ÿš™ , tour busses ๐ŸšŒ and trucks ๐Ÿš› were speeding past us in one continuous stream of traffic. We hit a tunnel and didnโ€™t even have time to stop and cross the road, which would have been suicide, to cycle on the sidewalk instead of the main road.ย 

We stopped just after the tunnel to catch some breath and Suuz nearly had her first mental breakdown. We needed to keep going though for another short stretch until we could get exit this horrendous road. For real, Mas would rather date a Chucky doll ๐ŸงŸโ€โ™‚๏ธ than cycle any further on that shit thing. And she really hates puppets.

Anyway, when we finally reached the exit we stopped at a cafe for an espresso and aย fresh smoothie fruit ๐Ÿ‰ ๐ŸŽ ๐ŸŒ before continuing our trip on a secondary road. It was a huge relief, beautifully quite, hardly any cars ๐Ÿš—, good surface but sooo steep. We loved it though. The main road would probably have saved us a lot of climbing but this was so worth it. A lot of caterpillars ๐Ÿ› on the road distracted us a little from all the effort we had to put in cycling up 20% inclines. Quite a challenge not to run them over. Once at the top we had some crazy violent dogs ๐Ÿ• on our downhill. They were barking and coming close. It seemed they were guard dogs protecting territory, those are the worst.ย 

The view from the secondary road was amazing
Every small village has its own church โ›ช

We circled down around the mountain โ›ฐ and all of a sudden we had this amazing view of Kotor ๐Ÿ˜. Probably one of the most mind blowing views we ever experienced. This old Montenegrin city was built along a small bay surrounded by these huge mountains โ›ฐ and the ocean ๐ŸŒŠ. Absolutely beautiful.

Circling down into Kotor
Beautiful Kotor ๐Ÿ˜

After the most gorgeous and totally deserved downhill into Kotor we cycled along the water to our apartment situated just outside of the city on the road we would be following tomorrow. We enjoyed our midday swim ๐ŸŠ๐Ÿปโ€โ™€๏ธ in our private pool and looked at our route after Dubrovnik. After todayโ€™s traffic terror and the stories weโ€™ve heard from other cyclists we are very reluctant to continue down the touristy coastline of Croatia. We will probably take some ferries โ›ด and cycle some of the Croatian islands instead.ย 

The road along the bay of Kotor
The view from our balcony
Mas cooling off in the pool ๐ŸŠโ€โ™€๏ธ

In the late afternoon we took a taxi ๐Ÿš• to the old town of Kotor. If you ever have the chance, go visit. Itโ€™s touristy, for sure, but itโ€™s also very much a fairytale of a city. We walked around for a bit, exploring the small cobbled streets and alleys and visited the Cat Museum ๐Ÿฑ. Motor is the city of cats ๐Ÿˆ , so Suuz was over the moon. Museums get you thirsty, so we went to a craft beer bar Suuz had read about, had a nice home-brew ๐Ÿป, played gin-rummy and later devoured some tasty shrimp ๐Ÿฆ and saffron spaghetti ๐Ÿ. A good finish to what started out as a pretty shitty day.ย 

Kotor old town against the mountain backdrop

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